Aishling Moore –
Aishling Moore experience
Aishling Moore – Goldie
Twenty-five-year-old Aishling is a native of Cork and was head chef of Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery under Stephen Kehoe, the executive chef of the group. Last September she and Stephen opened Goldie, which promotes gill to tail eating. Aishling was voted Best Irish Chef 2020 by the McKenna Guides.
Now, at just 25, she is the head chef of Goldie Fish and Ale, Cork’s only restaurant dedicated to practicing gill-to-fin seacuterie using seasonal fish landed by day boats into Kinsale and Ballycotton.
This ‘whole catch, whole fish’ approach to her cookery means that every day she is creating something new, so in many ways her childhood wish is now a reality.
After learning to cook honest to god “Cork Irish dishes” at her mother’s side, like bacon and cabbage and skirts and kidneys, and a week’s work experience, aged 16, in the hallowed kitchens of Ballymaloe House, the magic of food cemented Aishling’s desire to be a chef.
After studying at CIT, she went on to work under the aegis of some great female Cork chefs: Kate Lawlor at the since-gone-but-not- forgotten Fenn’s Quay and Pamela Kelly at Market Lane.
Working alongside Stephen Kehoe, the Executive Head Chef at Elbow Lane, Aishling’s ambition and creativity was nurtured. Her hard work culminated in Stephen, and co-founder of the Market Lane Group of restaurants, Conrad Howard, offering Aishling the opportunity to be the head chef of her own restaurant on Oliver Plunkett Street.
Goldie’s commitment to the ‘whole catch’ approach provides endless challenges. Most of the time, Aishling won’t know what’s going to be on the menu until the fish arrives at 11am every day.
“I’ve always thrived on limitation; I hate the freedom of doing whatever I want! I can’t control the fish, so whatever we get in, we have; and there are only so many vegetables I can use this time of year because of seasonality, but I think limitation breeds creativity and that has always worked really well for me.“I would say we are cooking consciously, taking cues from zero waste restaurants like Silo in London or Amass in Copenhagen.
But if you look back over the last 40 years of professional cookery, the great restaurants have always used all of the food. Myrtle Allen was definitely using all of the fish, and Gordon Ramsay was talking about dehydrating scallop roe and grating as a powder 20 years ago.